As I pour this beer, I reflect on what exactly a kolsch style beer is. Near as I can remember, it is a style very much like a pilsner in its overall appearance, but it tends to be a lot more hoppy. A kolsch is one of those odd in-between styles where the beer is top fermenting like an ale, but it's conditioned at low temperatures like a lager. In theory, this gives it a an overall smoothness or crispness that you can't get with another style. Or, it might be hard. But see what this take on it is.
For starters, this doesn't look like any kolsch I've ever had. Indeed, this doesn't look like any kolsch I've ever seen. It seems to be around the right shade of gold, but it's hazy. Kolsch beers, like pilsners, should be clear. I genuinely don't know what to make of the fact that this isn't clear. I'm not sure what they were going for. The relatively thin head leaves a modicum of tiny bubbles layered across the top of the beer. The aroma seems just about right for the style, as the sweet malt is very forward with the citrus and tropical fruits close at hand.First sip is crisp. The heavy dough malt brings a lot of sweetness, and it overcomes any bitterness that the hops are even trying to get away with. Meanwhile, the hops bring star fruit, orange, and tangerine to fill out the flavor very well. This may not be your standard Kolsch, but the sip is pretty darn good.
Tip-in is light tartness with gentle carbonation tickle as the malt is firm and the juices skew tropical. The middle gets downright smooth with the malt turning doughy as the fruit meat puts its power behind the sweetness of the malt. The finish is crisp and somewhat dry as a mere echo of bitterness manages to glom onto the fruity dough for the trail off.
Bottom Line: A genuinely enjoyable beer.
3.5/5