Wiseacre Ameliorator Doppelbock Lager

Wiseacre continues the series of pretty crappy looking labels. The other two beers showed promise, but they both failed in their own ways. I'm looking for these guys to start brewing truly spectacular beers sometime very soon - in fact, they may already brew the perfect beer, but I haven't had a chance to try it yet. Well, let's see if this is it.

The color is a deep red to the point of blackness. The head is pretty minimal, and the very thin cap left after a while is patchy, but it grips the sides well enough. It only grips at the rim, though. There's pretty much no lacing going on at all. The aroma is rich and deep. It has dark fruits and sweet malt just bubbling around (I notice quite a bit of sediment swirling around in there when I hold it up to the light).

First sip is firm. It's a heavy dark fruit and bread just all up in my face saying, "Yea, boy! This is how we do it in The Acre!" It's not unrefined, but it's bold and untamed. The carbonation even seems to let you know that it's there, it could do a little more, but it sees what the other ingredients are doing, and it doesn't feel the need to assert itself.

Tip-in is sweet and tart with apricot, fig, plumbs, nectarines, and a mishmash of other dark fruits. The fruits fall into the middle and are joined with a yeasty bread as the fruit rolls to the back of the mouth. The roof of the mouth is positively assaulted by the carbonation that implied what it could do during the sip, and it is finally let loose right here in the center of the beverage. The finish picks up the onslaught with a tangy twang of under-ripe plums, and then everything just drops to let the sweet malt and the bready yeast trail off into the night.

Bottom Line: Imposing and challenging, this is a beer that is worth the effort the brewers put into it.

4.0/5

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